For a century, from 1680 to 1780, Indian fabrics were the most sought-after fabrics in Europe, surpassing even spices as the main export commodity. The English and the Dutch imported a million pieces of fabric per year, and the French about 300,000. The "indiennes" these fabrics developed in Europe (notably in France by Boussac - pictured) during this period and up until the 19th century are directly inspired by the traditional Indian craft of blockprinting.
Before the British Raj, weavers as a community had considerable bargaining power with merchants. The East India Company enacted laws prohibiting weavers from purchasing raw materials and requiring them to sell finished products only to the Company. The Indian weaving industry was systematically dismantled. In 1834, the Governor General reported: "The bones of the weavers are whitening the plains of India."
The value of India's textile exports fell by 98% between 1800 and 1860, while the value of textile imports increased by 6,300% during the same period.
Indian Textile Industry Today
Textiles are the largest generator of employment in India after agriculture. While this is reflected in the GDP and export figures, it has not really improved the lives of farmers, hand spinners and artisan weavers.
India is home to over 136 unique weaves and many hand-dyeing and printing techniques. Of these, about 55 weaves are endangered. Although India holds a large share of the world's cotton yarn trade, its garment trade accounts for only 4% of the world's total. Handloom weaving contributes to nearly 15% of the country's fabric production, and India accounts for 95% of the world's hand-woven fabrics.
Although the share of handloom weaving in textile production is currently low in terms of percentage and income, it provides employment to nearly 5 million weaving families, including women in rural areas.
If the handmade textile market is expanded globally and nationally, it has the potential to provide employment to millions more people and become an active participant in the €900 billion global textile and apparel industry.
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